The highlight of our stay in Ohakune was the Tongariro Crossing. In fact, we came here especially to "do" the crossing. It is New Zealand's most popular 1-day walk. In fact, it is nickname is the Tongariro Highway because 92,000 people a year complete this track - about 2,000 people a day! The oldest has been an 87 year old woman and a 2 year old girl (but she was carried part of the way by her dad!) Amazing!
You must arrange transport to and from the track, by bus, and they are under OBLIGATION to make sure they pick you up for the return. They give you specific times of where to be by one o'clock, three o'clock, etc. - so you'll be sure to be at the bus on time. Hmmmm, should we be concerned?
Oh well - off we go! We arrive at the Maeiti office (the bus station) at 7:25 am to catch our transport to the Crossing. A 45 minute drive with our driver pointing out all the points of interest along the way - Mt. Ruapehu (2797m), Mt. Ngauruhoe (2287m), Mt. Tongariro (1967m) - The Volcanic Zone. There was also discussion of what we'd experience once we were up top - Soda Springs, South Crater, Red Crater, Emerald Lakes, Central Crater and Blue Lake. Of course he couldn't forget the huts, Mangatepopo Hut (at the beginning of the track) and Ketetahi Hut (toward the end of the track) that will accommodate the essential toilet breaks during the day.
A bit of history, New Zealand's volcanoes are part of the 'ring of fire', a chain of mountains that fringes the Pacific Ocean and includes approximately three-quarters of the world's active volcanoes, a consequence of plate tectonics, occurring along the collision zones of the Pacific Plate and the Continental Plates. Since 1886 five volcanoes have been active in this 300 kilometer-long zone; White Island, Tatawera, Tongariro, Ngauruhoe and Ruapehu. There are also numerous geothermal areas scattered throughout the zone. The last eruptions from Mt. Ruapehu were in 1995 and 1996.
Back to the track. We must carry a day pack with our own food, water, sunscreen, hats, cold weather gear, wet weather gear, hot weather gear and first-aid kit, etc. They are careful to inform us that the weather can change with alarming speed and at any time whilst on the mountain, and that we need to be prepared for it. We should also be prepared to turn back, especially when visibility becomes poor and in strong winds. It's not easy to get down quickly - so safety is of utmost importance.
We were fortunate we consulted with Eimhin (Lisa's boyfriend), about what to expect. Eimhin completed the crossing, and both side trips (an extra 2 hours to Summit Mt. Ngauruhoe and an extra 2 hours to Summit Mt. Tongariro) in one day - during his travel to NZ. He's given us a visual of what to expect - we are relatively sure we can complete the track, we're just not sure how we'll be at the end! or the day after!
We actually start walking around 8:40 am. A quick toilet pit-stop then we're off! The first 45 minutes to an hour are manageable - it's very flat, but it's early, it's cold and windy. Soon we're shedding gear as we begin a climb we'll not soon forget. It's appropriately nicknamed the Devil's staircase and it lives up to it's title. Steep lava flows take you from 1200m to approximately 1650m. The route description declares the track is challenging - and IT IS!
There are lots of people on the track and they regularly pass us. Nancy must stop frequently to catch her breath, and struggles to keep her balance with two walking poles in her hands and a full pack on her back. It is quite a challenge for her.
When we reach the South Crater Joe was encouragingly stating that he thought most of the strenuous uphill climb was finished - not quite accurate. In short order we were again climbing - up to the Red Crater (around 1900m). This section of the track was steep and rocky, and littered with lots of loose stones making the climb treacherous. When we reached the top of the Red Crater we experienced awesome views unlike anywhere else on the planet. It was AMAZING! We caught our breath for a minute, then it was time to go. There was a lot of track remaining, so we stayed for a minute, then began a steady downhill descent. Again, extremely steep, with deep, loose pea size rock underfoot. It took intense concentration to get down safely.
Not too far beyond the descent from Red Crater we reached the lakes region of the track. It was an absolutely gorgeous area - the lovely Emerald Lakes, the amazing Central Crater, then the beautiful blue lake. Downhill from this point, long switchbacks, all the way down the mountain. They seemed to go on for ever! We stopped just beyond Blue Lake for a 10 minute break to down some water and eat our PB&J. Then it was back to the track.
After a couple of hours steady walking, we reached the native bush section of the track. It was breezy and cool - a welcome change from the exposure to the elements we'd been experiencing all day. This section also went on and on. We continued through private lands of Ketetahi Springs, following the creek to the car park. After 7 hours of tough climbs, descents and long expanses of exposed track - we were glad to see the bus arrive at the end.
All-in-all this was probably the most intense 1-day walk we'd undertaken so far. One for the record books as far as Nancy is concerned.
You must arrange transport to and from the track, by bus, and they are under OBLIGATION to make sure they pick you up for the return. They give you specific times of where to be by one o'clock, three o'clock, etc. - so you'll be sure to be at the bus on time. Hmmmm, should we be concerned?
Oh well - off we go! We arrive at the Maeiti office (the bus station) at 7:25 am to catch our transport to the Crossing. A 45 minute drive with our driver pointing out all the points of interest along the way - Mt. Ruapehu (2797m), Mt. Ngauruhoe (2287m), Mt. Tongariro (1967m) - The Volcanic Zone. There was also discussion of what we'd experience once we were up top - Soda Springs, South Crater, Red Crater, Emerald Lakes, Central Crater and Blue Lake. Of course he couldn't forget the huts, Mangatepopo Hut (at the beginning of the track) and Ketetahi Hut (toward the end of the track) that will accommodate the essential toilet breaks during the day.
A bit of history, New Zealand's volcanoes are part of the 'ring of fire', a chain of mountains that fringes the Pacific Ocean and includes approximately three-quarters of the world's active volcanoes, a consequence of plate tectonics, occurring along the collision zones of the Pacific Plate and the Continental Plates. Since 1886 five volcanoes have been active in this 300 kilometer-long zone; White Island, Tatawera, Tongariro, Ngauruhoe and Ruapehu. There are also numerous geothermal areas scattered throughout the zone. The last eruptions from Mt. Ruapehu were in 1995 and 1996.
Back to the track. We must carry a day pack with our own food, water, sunscreen, hats, cold weather gear, wet weather gear, hot weather gear and first-aid kit, etc. They are careful to inform us that the weather can change with alarming speed and at any time whilst on the mountain, and that we need to be prepared for it. We should also be prepared to turn back, especially when visibility becomes poor and in strong winds. It's not easy to get down quickly - so safety is of utmost importance.
We were fortunate we consulted with Eimhin (Lisa's boyfriend), about what to expect. Eimhin completed the crossing, and both side trips (an extra 2 hours to Summit Mt. Ngauruhoe and an extra 2 hours to Summit Mt. Tongariro) in one day - during his travel to NZ. He's given us a visual of what to expect - we are relatively sure we can complete the track, we're just not sure how we'll be at the end! or the day after!
We actually start walking around 8:40 am. A quick toilet pit-stop then we're off! The first 45 minutes to an hour are manageable - it's very flat, but it's early, it's cold and windy. Soon we're shedding gear as we begin a climb we'll not soon forget. It's appropriately nicknamed the Devil's staircase and it lives up to it's title. Steep lava flows take you from 1200m to approximately 1650m. The route description declares the track is challenging - and IT IS!
There are lots of people on the track and they regularly pass us. Nancy must stop frequently to catch her breath, and struggles to keep her balance with two walking poles in her hands and a full pack on her back. It is quite a challenge for her.
When we reach the South Crater Joe was encouragingly stating that he thought most of the strenuous uphill climb was finished - not quite accurate. In short order we were again climbing - up to the Red Crater (around 1900m). This section of the track was steep and rocky, and littered with lots of loose stones making the climb treacherous. When we reached the top of the Red Crater we experienced awesome views unlike anywhere else on the planet. It was AMAZING! We caught our breath for a minute, then it was time to go. There was a lot of track remaining, so we stayed for a minute, then began a steady downhill descent. Again, extremely steep, with deep, loose pea size rock underfoot. It took intense concentration to get down safely.
Not too far beyond the descent from Red Crater we reached the lakes region of the track. It was an absolutely gorgeous area - the lovely Emerald Lakes, the amazing Central Crater, then the beautiful blue lake. Downhill from this point, long switchbacks, all the way down the mountain. They seemed to go on for ever! We stopped just beyond Blue Lake for a 10 minute break to down some water and eat our PB&J. Then it was back to the track.
After a couple of hours steady walking, we reached the native bush section of the track. It was breezy and cool - a welcome change from the exposure to the elements we'd been experiencing all day. This section also went on and on. We continued through private lands of Ketetahi Springs, following the creek to the car park. After 7 hours of tough climbs, descents and long expanses of exposed track - we were glad to see the bus arrive at the end.
All-in-all this was probably the most intense 1-day walk we'd undertaken so far. One for the record books as far as Nancy is concerned.
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