February 1, 2009 Buenos Aries, Argentina
Buenos Aries is one of the loveliest cities we’ve visited in South America. A city of 15 million people, it is filled with wonderful parks and amazing architecture. Mass transportation is inexpensive and widely available.
Before we left on our cruise we searched the internet for a guide for Buenos Aries. We hired Marcelo Cicerone, a native Argentine, born and raised in Buenos Aries. Marcelo is a university graduate, loves travel, is fluent in English and also has a degree in tourism – what a stroke of luck for us! We met Marcelo not far from the port and we were off!
Day one started at the city center and made our way south. We visited the Catedral Metropolitana (the Metropolitan Cathedral), El Cabildo (the Colonial Town Hall), and Casa Rosada (the government house, like the white house, only it is pink.) Argentina has had a turbulent political past, but the present government is similar to the US; an elected president who serves a 4 year term, an executive branch, a House of Representatives, a Senate and a Judiciary Branch.
The balcony of Casa Rosada is where first lady Eva Peron made her famous speech to thousands of loyal supporters, the poor and working class people of Argentina. Eva Peron was illegitimate - the daughter of an Argentine politician who never acknowledged her existence. High society did not accept Eva, but she rose to prominence as an actress and singer. She married a politician who was elected president, and she became a tireless advocate for the poor and working class. As the wife of the President, she was able to have inefficient and ineffective programs abolished. She was instrumental in the creation of a healthcare program and worked tirelessly to enact workers rights laws. She also helped create local charities which continue today.
We couldn’t begin to count the number of beautiful monuments and statues located throughout the city. They mark significant events in Argentina’s history. Of course there are famous people, but there are also tributes to ordinary citizens.
One monument in particular really spoke to us. Painted on the brick pavement circling the monument are women’s bandanas or headscarves - in white – and it serves as a memorial to lost children. During the 1970s and 80s there was a lot of unrest in Argentina. Hundreds of young people, primarily liberal college students, were abducted by the dictatorship in power. They were drugged, tortured, and murdered. Many were loaded into airplanes, taken out to sea and dumped into the ocean. Most of the bodies were never found. Grief stricken mothers were unable to determine the whereabouts of their children, but they knew something was happening to them. In silent mourning they began to meet every Tuesday and Thursday and walk in a circle around the Argentine Independence Day monument. As their numbers grew it gained attention. It wasn’t a march, no speeches, not a rally - but a slow walk in a circle around the monument. When they were asked why they were there, their concerns sparked a local interest, and finally international attention. It was impossible for the government to “silence them” because the women weren’t breaking any law. Their issues made international headlines and finally the dictatorship was overthrown and the kidnapping stopped. The mothers still occasionally march, not in protest, but in memory of their children, so their children will not be forgotten.
On a lighter note, we visited Café Tortoni, formerly the home of the oldest newspaper publishing company in Argentina. It too became the victim of a corrupt government who closed down the newspaper. I guess they too didn’t appreciate a free press. The building is used as a bohemian chic café. Locals enjoy breakfast or light lunch here and it houses a collection of valuable Tiffany lamps (they are original Tiffany.)
We rode a section of Buenos Aires first subway – in the original wooden trains still running. That was neat to see that they are still in use and looking great. Next we were off to the San Telmo and Hippie markets which are only held on Sunday. Everything you can imagine is here. Mata Cups and straws, paintings, arts and crafts, jewelry, fabric, leather goods and clothes - lots of folks out strolling in the sunshine, enjoying a perfectly lovely day. Tango dancers and musicians performed in the street, as well as magicians, mimes and puppeteers.
After lunch we visited the colorful neighborhood of La Boca. It is reputed to be the home of Tango! It is similar to a favella in Rio. Once a very poor neighborhood, its river location was formerly the main port. Homes were painted multiple colors to utilize paint leftover from ships in port. Homes and Cafés continue to paint in this style, using historic colors. Tango and gaucho dancers performed in the street as locals enjoyed a stroll or leisurely lunch. We saw the local football (soccer) stadium that is brightly painted in blue and yellow – colors of the neighborhood team. As we finished touring the neighborhood we stopped in at the local firehouse, visiting with one of the firefighters on duty. With Marcelo translating we enjoyed a nice conversation and have decided fire departments are operated practically the same way all over the world.
A little later we made our way downtown and took a look in the most expensive McDonalds in the world. Formerly a mansion, this house has been converted into a fast food restaurant. It is quite elaborate.
As we made our way back to the pier we passed through some very poor areas - very, very, very poor and wrapped up the day at the El Obelisco (the obelisk) memorial. This monument sits squarely in the middle of what is said to be the largest boulevard in the world – 18 lanes of traffic - 9 lanes in each direction.
February 2, 2009 – Buenos Aries Day Two
Today we started at the city center and headed to the north. We visited mansions, former residences of which most are now administrative headquarters for Argentina’s government and veterans affairs. We trekked through more parks and stopped to admire dozens of fabulous monuments. We also visited the memorial to Argentine soldiers killed in the Falkland Islands War with the United Kingdom.
As we toured different sections of the city Marcelo pointed out how architectural styles evolved. We visited the site of Argentina’s first brush with terrorism – the former Israeli Embassy. It was bombed in the 90s and the area where the building stood is now a memorial to those who died.
We were next off to the famous Recoleta Cemetery – or Cemeterio Del Norte. This is some of the most expensive real estate in Buenos Aries! The cemetery is listed as 5th in the world for valuable art. There are works from masters adorning the mausoleums here. The wealthy aristocrats of Buenos Aries commissioned sculptures from solid blocks of Cabrera marble imported from Europe. It is a fascinating place, you could spend days here taking it all in. It is huge! and of course Eva Peron is buried there.
Next we visited a gorgeous bookstore that was formerly a theatre and opera house. It was beautiful! We walked the grounds of the local university and visited a local bakery. Mmm! Next it was time for lunch at a café in the Recoleta district. After lunch we visited a modern sculpture of a flower (in was constructed by a subsidiary of Boeing.) The sculpture’s petals open in the morning and close at dusk – just like a real flower.
The day was coming to a close and it was time for a visit to the best ice cream shop in Buenos Aries to sample the goods! Next we picked up a few bottles of Argentina’s famous vino from the local grocery – Marcelo’s favorite varieties, of course!
At last it was time to head back to the ship and to bid Marcelo goodbye. We thoroughly enjoyed Buenos Aries – it was a city we will not soon forget!
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