06 30 2009 Crazy Horse Monument

The Crazy Horse Memorial honors the North American Indian and is so much more than a mountain carving.

Crazy Horse was born on Rapid Creek in the Black Hills of South Dakota in about 1842. While at Fort Robinson, Nebraska, under a flag of truce, he was stabbed in the back by an American Soldier and died September 6, 1877 (about age 35(?))

Crazy horse defended his people and their way of life in the only manner he knew, but only after he saw the Treat of 1868 broken. The Treaty, signed by the President of the United States, said, in effect: As long as rivers run and grass grows and trees bear leaves, Paha Sapa - the Black Hills of Dakota - will forever be the sacred land of the Sioux Indians. Only after he saw his leader, Conquering Bear, exterminated by treachery. Only after he saw the failure of the government agents to bring required treaty guarantees, such as meat, clothing, tents and necessities for existence which they were to receive for having given up their lands and gone to live on the reservations. Only after he saw his peoples' lives and their way of life ravaged and destroyed. Crazy Horse was never known to have signed a treaty or tuched the pen.

Crazy Horse, as far as the scale model is concerned, is to be carved not so much as a likeness, but more as a memorial to the spirit of Crazy Horse - to his people.

With his left hand thrown out pointing in answer to the derisive question asked by a white man, "Where are your lands now?" he replied, "My lands are where my dead lie buried."

Sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski was a completely self-taught sculptor. He never took a formal lesson in art, sculpture, architecture or engineering. He arrived in the Black Hills in 1939 to help Gutzon Borglum on Mount Rushmore.

Almost 70 years ago, Lakota (Sioux) Chief Henry Standing Bear asked Korczak to create a monument of Crazy Horse in their sacred Black Hills. Standing Bear read reports of Korczak's artistic achievements and invited him to create a mountain tribute. Chief Standing Bear wrote "My fellow chiefs and I would like the white man to know the red man has great heroes, too."


Following the completion of Mount Rushmore, Korczak served his country in Europe in World War II. After the war he returned to the Black hills to tackle the mountain.

He started with chisels and hammers, doing back breaking work by hand. The first blast on the mountain was June 3, 1948. Korczak's wife, Ruth, was by his side every step of the way. She was 18 years younger than he, but embraced his dream. She took care of 10 children, five girls and five boys, the visitors, a dairy, a sawmill and Korczak. Following his death at age 74 in 1982, Ruth took on Korczak's monumental task of making the dream come true. She is supported by an enthusiastic staff, business-savvy board of birectors of the nonprofit foundation and a growing international group of members of the Grass Roots Club. Seven of their children help to continue and expand on their father's work. The other three children live within fiv emiles of the Memorial. Ruth still lives in the home Korczak built in 1947 and works 7 days a week keeping all aspects of the Memorial going. At age 82 her love for her work keeps her happy and she is grateful to begin each new day.

The Monument is funded by visitor fees and generous donations. No Federal money has ever been accepted and will never be accepted!

Workers hope to have the head of the horse completed within the next seven years, and the entire sculpture, in the round, should be complete within the next 40 years!

2009 06 30 Mt. Rushmore

It's been almost 10 years since we last visited Mt. Rushmore. The Monument continues to amaze us - what a tremendous work of art!

We are staying in Rapid City this week and plan to observe the annual fireworks display at the Monument. Should be a really neat way to celebrate the Fourth!

2009 06 22 Back Stateside

We've spent the last couple of days getting over jet-lag. Bags are unpacked, dirty laundry is washed and put away and the fridge has been stocked - we're ready to hit the road.

By the end of the week we'll be heading to the west coast for a visit with Lisa and Eimhin. Heather, Justin and Peyton will be coming to join us soon. Should be a fun visit and great to get both girls together again.

To all our friends, drop us a line and let us know what you're up to. Enjoy your Summer!

2009 06 17 20th Wedding Anniversary - Salute!

Salute! Here's to 20 more!

2009 06 17 Our 20th Wedding Anniversary - Walk of the Gods

We decided to celebrate our 20th Wedding Anniversary with a hike through the mountains of Praiana, Italy (on the Amalfi Coast.

The track is referred to as Walk of the Gods and is a very popular walk. Our guide, Maruizio, led us up the mountain from the village of Praiano. We were joined by Peter from Byron Bay, Australia for an 8 o'clock start.

The trek started in the village and continued up the stairway terraces into the hills. Up, up, up we went along steps and rocky paths to visit a very old church from 1599.

The church is no longer used for regular services, however it is used periodically throughout the year for holidays and special occasions. It is also interesting that our guide, Maurizio's father was born in the residence attached to the church.

The land surrounding the church has been in Maurizio's family for generations and is still farmed today. Where once the land was a large track farmed by Maurizio's grandfather and relatives, today the land is separated into smaller sections belonging individually to the family members.

Maurizio uses his land to grow fruits and vegetables and of course to maintain his vineyard for personal consumption. There is a cave in the hillside that Maurizio uses for his wine cellar. When it is time to harvest the grapes, the women pick, the men transport and the children stomp the grapes in a family festival sort of way. This is all done at the vineyard and the wine is stored in the cave until it is ready to be consumed.

Inside the Vineyard and veg patch there is a small bulding, honestly a neat little house or retreat. It is room large enough for a bed, table and chairs, a small kitchen area with a gas burner to cook and prepare espresso. It really is an Italian Shangrila in the mountains. It is not just a shelter to be used during farming, it is an escape used for fun and relaxation. In the garden area is a beautiful lemon tree producing an abundance of fresh fruit. Other fruit trees of peach, apple, apricot and fig are grown. Of course there is the vineyard for the wine production, olive trees for olive oil production and the vegetable and herb garden. Inside the "house" hang onions and garlic, fresh herbs dry in tied-bunches from the ceiling. On the wall hang photos of Maurizio's relatives. To allow us to experience his little world was a highlight during our treck. It was a visit to Maurizio's little slice of heaven. It was really neat to experience first-hand how the people in the region grow their food in the little terraces between the cliffs. An up-close view of how they produce wine and vinegar - and their cave-side wine cellar was very special. I just love Amalfi.

Well, we couldn't stay in Shangrila forever - it was time to move on. We continued up, up, and up some more until we reached the narrow track along the sides of the cliffs. No railing on much of this stretch of the track. Maurizio was sure to warn us to stay close to the rocks and to watch where we stepped. He pointed out that while there was vegetation growing along the edge, you did not want to accidentally stepped off, it would be straight down the mountain for hundreds of feet. There was no way I was getting any closer to the edge that I had to. It really wasn't dangerous, you just needed to exercise caution. A description of the walk provided by our hotel suggested that if you had Vertigo, perhaps this wasn't the hike for you.

Five and a half hours after we started, we arrived at the small village of Nocelle. It was only five years ago this village got a road. Before that, the only way to get here was by walking the trail we just hiked. I cannot imagine.

When we reached Nocelle we of course refilled our water bottles, visited the WC, and stopped into the only cafe in town for a cool Coca-Cola. We had only a few minutes before it was time to catch a village bus to Positano, where we switched busses to carry us back to our hotel in Praiano.

Hot, sweaty and exhausted we said of goodbyes to Peter, while Maurizio joined us on our bus ride back to Praiano. We were so glad to get back to the room for a shower, some water and LUNCH! We were starving. It was a wonderful day, we had great company, we enjoyed fantastic scenery, had a great walk - it was a very memorable day indeed.

2009 06 15 Let's Eat!!

We decided that today was going to be a leisure day - sleeping late and easing into the day with a quiet breakfast. Then it was time for a bit of TV (we only get 2 English channels: BBC - which we really can't stand and CNN - which we can really only take in small doses - the same news loop over and over and over). Before long it was time to eat again so we opted for lunch at La Brace Pizzeria across the street from our hotel.

The atmosphere and the pizza was fantastic - no, it was perfect. A lovely view of the coast and a nice breeze drifting across our table by the window. It will be difficult to enjoy pizza back home again. The dough for the crust was prepared fresh and baked in a wood burning oven. Texture and flavor were incredible. Crispy and chewy - what a combination. Fresh tomatoes, fresh cheese, fresh basil. Ymmmmmmmm. Everything baked in those ovens has a delicious flavor - and it's the only kind of oven they use here. I want one.....

2009 06 14 Mount Vesuvius and Pompeii, Italy

Early today we walked to the top of Mt. Vesuvius. The volcano is infamous because it's eruption in 79 AD destroyed the Italian city of Pompeii, killing over 3,000 people where they stood. Most died of asphixiation from the poisonous gas from the eruption. Volcanic Ash preserved remains that lay undiscovered for centuries!

He're is a shot of me and Joe at the top of the volcano. The most recent eruption was in 1944 during the Allied occupation of WWII. Experts predict the volcano will erupt within the next 10 years. Gas and vapors can be observed coming from inside the cauldron.

When we wrapped up our visit to the volcano we enjoyed lunch at a nearby cafe and toured the ruins of Ancient Pompeii. We walked the historic streets of the city, toured homes of the wealthy and viewed fantastic mosaics that remain on the floors. We even walked through one of 25 brothels that have been discovered here - complete with frescoes depicting a number of services men of the times might require. My gosh! It is the world's oldest profession. Interestingly enough the frescoes are preserved in amazing detail. It was explained that many patrons spoke foreign languages, and this way they were sure to get exactly what they wanted. They just ordered from the menu.....

Excavation continues and there are sure to be historic treasures that remain. Be sure to take a look at our photo album to view more shots from Vesuvius and Pompeii.

2009 06 10 Praiana on the Amalfi Coast

We arrived on the Amalfi Coast and it is simply stunning. The narrow two-laned highway is more thrilling than any ride Disney has to offer. We arrived at our hotel in Praiana and were treateed to stunning views from our balcony. Sleepy little villages cling to the sides of steep cliffs and beautiful blue water laps at their feet below - it is simply breathtaking.




















They grow everything here - especially Lemons! They are featured on everything here from paintings to ceramics. These are the real thng and they are so gorgeous.

2009 06 09 Naples, Italy

We are leaving our cruise in Naples instead of Rome. We are on our way to the Amalfi Coast. We will spend one night in Napoli then it's off to Praiana!

We've been forewarned about Naples. It is famous for theives and pickpockets.A densely populated place, Naples is the working class/industrial region of Italy. There are lots of poor people here and the city is very dirty. It is also very difficult to maneuver around - I suppose the only draw is that it is close to Pompeii and Mt. Vesuvius and that it is home to an amazing Archaeological Museum. Unfortunately, however, the museum is closed today and we will not be able visit.

As we explored the area around our hotel we got an uneasy feeling. Lots of people loitering around, checking us out, if you want to call it that. We decided it was best to play it safe and hang out in the hotel. We need to relax a bit before we head to Amalfi anyway.

2009 06 07 Santorini, Greece

The islands of the Cyclades comprise one of the most enchanting parts of Greece, and Santorini may be the prettiest of them all. Whitewashed buildings cling to cliffs that plunge to a turquoise sea. This is one of the most dramatic land and seascapes in the entire Mediterranean. A visit to Santorini presents travelers with unforgettable vistas!

The three island group, Santorini, Thiraisa and Aspronisi form the visible rim of a caldera left by a massive volcanic eruption around 1600 B.C. Santorini today is shaped like a fishhook. but centures ago it was shaped like a neat, round, cone.

The eruption in 1600 B.C. may have destroyed one of Europe's earliest civilizations. Before there were civilized towns anywhere else in Greece, a mysterious group called the Minoans built a highly developed culture and today their written language still cannot be read. The Minoans were skilled at making bronze tools and knives but seemed to have no interest in larger weapons. For hundreds of years they constructed huge palaces with indoor plumbing and brightly colored wall paintings and fantastic pottery. Features of this civilization were adopted by the Trojans and Greeks setting the stage for the "Classical Greek" age. All this came to an end for reasons that are still unclear.

After the eruption the island repopulated and recovered quickly. Egyptians used the sheltered harbor as a base for their fleet. There are remnants of Roman buildings and early Christian Churches. Venetians and Turks controlled Santorini and the other Cyclades for more than 300 years. Santorini provides a diverse spectrum of the history of the Aegean region.

Sweeping black sand beaches abound on the eastern shore. Cliffs surrounding the town show levels of volcanic debris laid down after each eruption. Different colors of lava, slag, ash and pumice stone provide a gentle reminder that earthquakes and volcanic activity continue to be a reality here. The last eruption was in 1948 and Santorini is on the same fault line as Stromboli, Vesuvius and Etna.

The most enjoyable part of our visit to Santorini was walking the streets of Oia. Perched atop cliffs at Santorini's northernmost point, this small village has managed to escape the onslaught of modern tourism. Its narrow cobblestone lanes reveal brilliantly whitewashed buildings, shops, caf'es and domed churches. The striking contrast of the briliant blue sky and the white buildings is amazingly beautiful. Such a tranquil spot in the world. We think it's one of the most beautiful places we've ever seen. You just have to visit this place. We want to return again - SOON!

2009 06 06 Rhodes, Greece

Rhodes is the most important island in the Dodecanese or South Sporades Islands. It is also the most easterly island of the Aegean Sea.

In Greek mythology, Rhodes was created by the sun god and a sea nymph: symbolic to both sun and sea in this beautiful place. According to Homer, the first colonists were Dorian Greeks, who founded three settlements; Lindos, Kamiros and Ialyssos. All three towns grew and prospered, extending trade as far as Italy and Spain. They became involved in the Persian and Peloponesian wars and saw the need for a fortress. The city of Rhodes was founded at the northern tip of the island, and built a powerful citadel with a protected harbor.

The most glorious episode in Rodian history began in 1309 when the Knights of St. John took control of the region. The Knights were founded during the Crusades as a nursing brotherhood, helping to care for the sick and infirm among the pilgrims to the Holy Land. As fighting continued in the countryside they evolved into a military order, although they never lost their interest in medicine and healing.

The real treat in Rhodes is to walk the streets of the Old Town. The journey will take you back 5 centuries. There is an ancient Temple of Athena Lindia that as had recent restoration to let you have a glimpse of what the ancient temple was like.

2009 06 05 Kusadasi and Ephesus, Turkey

We arrived Kusadasi and made our way to the ancient ruins of Ephesus. Here we entered through the Magnesia Gate to the marble paved road into the ruins of this Roman provincial capital. We walked past the Odeum, the Celsus Library, the Temple of Hardian, the Fountain of Trajan and the Great Theater, where St. Paul preached to the Ephesians. The Ephesus Museum houses an incredible collection of Hellenistic and Roman statues, carved reliefs and aftifacts unearthed from the ruins.

Not nearly as interesting, but certainly worthwhile is the local Bazaar which has grown to one of Turkey's largest markets for leather goods, jewelry and oriental rugs. Only the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul is bigger. As I've said before - these guys are salesmen, they'll sell anything. It is just too much. You can hardly turn around without someone in your face. All kidding aside, the rugs here are fantastic. There is cotton, wool, wool on cotton, wool on wood. wool on silk, and of course the most expensive rug - silk on silk. They are such incredible works of art. There are small prayer rugs, to be used of course for praying or as a wall hanging. Then there are the monster rugs that are exquisite. Multiples of thousands of dollars. I couldn't leave empty handed - but we only bought one. I just love it. It's my 20th anniversary present from Joe. I'm still smiling.......It is lovely.

2009 06 04 Mykonos, Greece

We arrived in Mykonos, Greece and immediately took a ferry to tour Delos Island. Delos is the archaeologtical site revered in antiquity as the birthplace of the Gods of the sun and moon. According to Greek mythology Delos is the site where beautiful Leto gave birth to twins: Artemis, Goddess of the Moon and Apollo, God of the Sun. The island is considered the third most important archaeological site in all of Greece. It is also home to the famous Naxos Lions and the Sacred Lions Walk. The Island also houses ruins of three ancient temples dedicatged to the Sun God. Of course there is a museum housing some of the relics discovered here.

Of course there are inscriptions, even a few from WWI or II!! I'm not really sure. I just happed to be viewing a big chunk of marble that had some Greek inscription on it, and the guide was telling us what the inscription meant. The more I stared at the writing the strangest thing happened - I could read "Cook U.S.N." I had to chuckle - some nuckle-head US Navy guy and his captain were so bored they carved their namesinto an ancient Greek artifact....I guess they wanted to be a part of history too!

After our tour was finished we grabbed a bit of lunch at a lovely water-side cafe. Next we were off to walk the lovely streets of cube-shaped white houses trimmed in bright turquoise blue and brilliant red. The contrast between the buildings and the dazzling blue sky and sea is enchanting. Bouganvillia and Geranium abound and complement the beautiful stucco buildings. To top off the walk you cannot miss the windmills that stand on the ridge above the Harbor.

Mykonos belongs to the island group known as the Cyclades. They form a rough circle around the sacred island of Delos, one of the religious centers of ancient Greece. The Cyclades are positioned along trade routes from Europe The island produced a brilliant culture very early in recorded history, even before the great Minoan civilization on Crete. The islands fell under the control of the Venetian Republic following the Fourth Crusade. Then in the 16th century by the Turks. There was always a danger of invasion by priates, so the town and harbor were built compactly for defense purposes. The winding streets served a dual purpose, not only designed to confuse invaders but also to break the effects of the strong winds coming in from the Aegean Sea.

Beautiful icons on the island are the Church of Agia Kiriaki and the Square of The Three Wells. Local legend has it that unmarried girls needed to drink from each of the three wells in order to find the right husband...I guess that's where the old saying "must be something in the water" comes from.......

2009 06 03 Athens, Greece

Arriving in Athens brought the pages of history to life and exploring Athens is like walking in the footsteps of the great statesmen who planted seeds of our Western philosophy, science, culture and art. If you've ever visited Athens you would have to agree that it is an experience you'll not soon forget.

Viewing the Arch of Hadrian and the Olympian Temple of Zeus is moving. As we approached the Acropolis our excitement grew. The Acropolis dominates the Athenian landscape and it was a quite an experience to walk up the 80 steep steps through the Propylea leading to the Parthenon, the Erectheion and the graceful Porch of the Caryarids. I know what you must be thinking and I'll admit that I cannot pronounce half of these places - but to witness such grandeur and imagine what life must have been like in Ancient times is a dream come true.

The National Archaeological Museum displays major archaeological finds. We viewed the stqtue of Poseidon and the Mask of Agamemnon.

The Plaka is the modern shopping district at the foot of the Acropolis and is home to a sprawling flea market. Cobbled streets lined with shops, tavernas, cafes, T-shirts and lots of gold jewelry...Gotta have that retail therapy.

We also visited the old Olympic Sadium built in 1896 and made of gorgeous white marble. It was built on the foundations of the Ancient Athens stadium of the 4th-century B.C. More recently it was used in the 2004 Olympic games. It looks as impressive as ever - and it is over a hundred years old.

As we left Athens we looked past Hadrian's Arch and viewed the remains of the largest temple in antiquity, the Temple of Olympian Zeus. The Temple took over 700 years to complete and is impossible to imagine how beautiful it must have been.

Of course there is more to Athens than the Acropolis, Temples and Museums - but it is hard to focus on anything else. Street signs and the Greek language makes it difficult to communicate with the locals. Still, everyone was friendly and the need to sell, sell, sell is alive and well. The city sprawls into the hills and appears to go on forever. What an amazing place. We are moved by the experience.

2009 06 02 Olympia and Katakolon, Greece

Perched on the west coast of the Peloponnesus, Greece's largest peninsula, this sleepy fishing village of 300 is the gateway to Olympia, site of the original Olympic Games. The Ancient Olympic games were held every 4 years beginning in 776 B.C. in honor of Zeus, father of the Gods, a tradition that lasted for more than 1,100 years.

The games were a series of religious festivals that drew warring communities together. A sacred truce that lasted an entire month allowed people to travel safely between their homes and the shrine without interference. Causing harm to anyone during the truce was considered a horrible sacrilege and punishment was severe.The two most important festivals that took place were at Delphi and Olympia. The Delphic games were held every two years in honor of Apollo, Olympian god and safeguard of universal harmony. Delphi is a stunning town in central Greece, north of the Gulf of Corinth.

Because of the immense popularity of the Games, the Temple of Zeus and the great statue which was housed in it was considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Religious aspects of the games declined in the Roman period and the games stopped altogether after 393 A.D. The Emperor Constantine banned pagan festivals. The site was abandoned and the buildings fell into ruin. A huge earthquake in the 6th century completed the damage.

Olympia was only rediscovered in the 18th century. The Ancient Olympic Games celebrated the ideal harmony of mind and body. The modern Olympic movement began in 1896 when Baron Pierre de Coubertin arranged the first games in Athens. Every four years since then the sacred flame of Altis is rekindled to light the flame, which is then carried to the site of the games.

2009 06 01 Corfu, Greece

The island of Corfu lies in the Ionian Sea, midway between Greece and Italy. The island has a long and colorful history.













Colonized by the city-state of Corinth, Corfu has been ruled by the Romans, the Venetians, the French and the English. The town boasts fortresses bearing the insignia of the Venetial Republic, an esplanade lavishly planted by the French during the Napoleonic Wars and an English cricket pitch. The island also boasts some of the finest coastal scenery in the entire Mediterranean.


















Corfu's position was an ideal highway between Greece and the west and prosperity came quickly to the region. Trade rivalry with Corinth was so intense that the first recorded naval battle in Greek history occured around 664 B.C. The island was a good friend to the Roman Empire, and Octavian made it a naval station for his operations against Marc Anthony Cleopatra. Corfu has had a stormy history marked by constant changes of ownership and serious threats from pirates. In 1386 islanders asked for protection from the Venetian Republic which lasted until the republic was abolished in 1797. Intermittent attacks by the Turkish Navy were repulsed and Corfu served as a refuge for Greek artists and scholars fleeing from Turkish advances elsewhere. These educated exiles founded the first Academy in modern Greece. During the Napoleonic Wars the Ionian Islands were under French control. Several building projects substantially beautified the capital. After the defeat of the French, Great Britain established a protectorate over the islands. Britain withdrew in 1864 and the Ionians joined the Kingdom of Greece.

While in Corfu we toured the Monastery of the Virgin Mary founded in 1288. The chapel houses a collection of religious paintings and icons. Our tour also took us to Kinopastes Village in the mountains, and a stroll through the Old Town for a peek at its historical sites, including the Venetian fortress, the French Esplanade and the English cricket pitch.