2009 05 31 Dubrovnik, Croatia

At its peak, Dubrovnik was a successful competitor of Venice and one of the most prosperous commercial powers in the world. The disintegration of the Roman Empire allowed barbarian tribes to raid and pillage settlements along the coast. Refugees and survivors fled to off-shore islands where they could better defend themselves.

Sometime around the year 639 the Avars sacked the Greco-Roman town of Epidaurum. Fugitives found their way to this small rocky island attempting to preserve their former way of life. Early fortifications were crude and their ships were small, but they survived nicely.

In 1667 a terrible earthquake destroyed the city and killed over 4,000 - more than half of the population. For six centuries Dubrovnik was an independent republic ruled by patrician families. The Republic was overthrown by Napoleon in 1808 and formed part of the Austrian empire. Dubrovnik was passed to the new state of Yugoslavia after WW I and in 1991 was broken apart in a violent, but brief civil war resulting in full independence for Croatia.

Of all the lovely towns along the Dalmatian coast, Dubrovnik may very well be the most picturesque. The city walls were completed in the 13th century. They encircle old Dubrovnik with a circumference of more than a mile and a half. The 14th-century monastery boasts cloisters in Romanesque and Gothic styles and has one of the finest manuscript libraries in Europe. It also has a fine collection of Renaissance art which includes frescoes by Veneziano and a painting by Titan. The 14th-century Pharmacy displays apothecary jars, medical books, healing recipes and works of gold and embroidery. The pharmacy is considered to be the oldest working pharmacy in Europe.

The seaside resort of Cavtat has been a favorite stop for the yachting set and England's Edward VIII and Wallace Simpson spent their honeymoon there.



Dubrovnik's location on the Adriatic sea provides the area with excellent seafood and shellfish. Known for its grape-laden vineyards, Croatia is known for its fine wines. Reds are Teran, Cabernet and Merlot; whites are coastal Pinot Malvazija, Kujunduuoa, and White Muokat.

2009 05 26 Venice, Italy

Aaahhhhh - Venice - An incredible city. Art, history, music - an amazing crumbling, sinking city. We've wanted to come here for years and now we can tick another box on our Bucket List.

While Venice an awesome place, it is so touristy! and we might add, expensive. We were told the best way to explore the city was to just wander around and loose yourself. We did just that! You can definitely loose yourself here. We are glad we came, but Venice is just over the top. Too many people, everything is too impersonal, and everyone is trying their best to get their piece of the pie. As far as we are concerned, it's a nice place, but there are other places to see before we'll come back. I know, I know - most people just love this place, it's nice - it's just not our favorite

Now it's off to the ship for our cruise to Croatia, Greece and Turkey.

2009 05 25 Goodbye Lake Como and Bellagio

Tomorrow we say goodbye to Lake Como and Bellagio. We make our way to Venice so stay tuned...Chao!

2009 05 25 Bellagio - Walk Around the Suburbs

After the blistering temps yesterday, we had a brief rain shower around midnight that seems to have reduced temps today. We enjoyed another fantastic breakfast and decided to test our walking legs again.

We started out from the center of town, past the Town Hall and Romanesque church of San Giorgio. We took the cobblestone stairs along the edge of town and headed Pescallo. Once a fishing village and fish market. At the beginning of the 13th Century it was the largest village and offered the largest quantity of fish for market. This village looks out onto the Lecco branch of the lake with marvelous views of the top of Grigna (2,409 meters high.) We pass by nursery gardens with is second to tourism in importance to the economy of Bellagio. The plants produced here are sold all over Europe.

We travel olive groves that have been cultivated in this region since Roman times. Como is also the farthest north point in Europe where olives are grown. Our stroll continues past Villa Camuzia and on to Regatola, home of famous Como scientist, Alessandro Volta (inventor of the voltaic cell in 1799) and the poet Guiseppe Parini.

Further on we make our way to Guggiate and the Hotel Silvio that offered glimpses of the lake framed by lovely old cypress trees. We pass a fantastic historic Mausoleum where descendents of the family Gonzaga of Mantova are burried.

Of course there were the beautiful churches that have been here for hundreds of years. There is modern construction too, even a Rowing School that boasts 6 world champions to date. Further on we make our way to Guggiate and Loppia. We get to see examples of Larian Gondolas which were used to transport goods and animals until as recently as the end of the 19th Century. We end our walk at the Gardens of Francesco Melzi. This is an amazing garden. Spectacular sculptures, pristine gardens, beautiful blooming azaleas and rhododendrons. The family Chapel and small museum are breathtaking. What a way to end the morning!

2009 05 24 Bellagio - Alle Darsene di Loppia

We enjoyed a delicious dinner at Alle Darsene di Loppia in Bellagio. Our host, Jacquo, of Hotel Centrale recommended the restaurant and we were not disappointed.

When we first glanced at the menu we thought we'd have trouble finding something we would enjoy - it all sounded so foo-foo! But were we ever wrong.




Wonderful Grappa, a huge, beautiful bread basket with the most scrumptuous breadsticks we've ever enjoyed. Next came an appetizer of fresh prawns with avacado sauce. Nancy's first course was a pasta pancake with duck sauce. I told you it sounded foo-foo. But my gosh - it was amazing. Joe opted for steamed zucchini blossoms stuffed with ricotta - again, foo-foo! Let me tell you it was as beautiful a presentation as we've ever seen. But even better, it was soooo delicious. Next it was time for the second plate. Nancy enjoyed Sea Bass served on sauteed tomatoes and olives. It was amazing. Joe opted for the pork loin - sounds straight forward enough. It was anything from ordinary. The outside was seared crisp, roasted to perfection, sliced thin. The ruby center of the meat just glistened. The first bite was a bit chewy, but as you continued the flavors that emerged were incredible, unlike any pork dish we've ever enjoyed.... A beautiful house wine and to finish a sampler plate of candied lemon peel, chocolate truffle, bitter cherry coulis, white chocolate crisps, freshly baked coconut macaroon and some type of chocolate cookie. Just perfect! What a special meal. Oh yeah - the setting near the lake wasn't bad either.

2009 05 24 Lake Como by Ferry

Cappuccino, warm chocolate croissants, fresh fruit, yogurt, more cappuccino - what a way to start the morning. The dining room here at Hotel Central has a slight view of Lago Como, but none-the-less, it is a very lovely setting. The french doors are open and a cool breeze pours over us. Pretty pots of flowers in full bloom, grape vines displaying forming clusters of grapes, glimpses of the boats making their way back and forth across the lake - just wonderful way to ease into the day. It is so nice to be retired. As we tell everyone, we highly recommend it....

Today we utilized the ferry to go across the lake. We thought we were heading first to Varenna (N.E.) but the ferry we were on tookthrough the Hamlets on the western edge of Lake Como. Our first stop was Cadenabbia where we got off the ferry and walked to Tremezzo, Lenno and Mezzegra. We retraced our steps when the pedestrian walkways gave out and reboarded the ferry to return to Bellagio.

After a quick cooldown in the room and a bit of Blog-work we stepped into a nearby cafe for lunch of local lake fish served heads and fins on! It was full of fine bones but very delicious.

Back to the ferry and this time we crossed the lake and stayed on as the ferry made its scheduled stops in Mezzegra, Tremezzo, Cadenabbia, Menaggio, Nobiallo, Santa Maria and finally back across Lago Como to Varenna.

By now the temps are scorching and we've walked several hours today. A quick tour of Varenna brought us back to the Point to reboard the ferry to Bellagio. We're exhausted - lots of up and down steep streets on cobblestone paths. Beautiful but hot. We needed a bit of time to rest before dinner.

2009 05 23 Bellagio - Touring the Hamlets

This morning we visited Bellagio's local Tourist Information office for advice on walking tours. They were happy to provide us with a map for a self-guided walk. Our tour was of the Hamlets on the Eastern side of Bellagio. Temps were pleasant and cool when we started the day and it took us a little over 3 hours to complete our walk. By the time we were finished the temperature was plenty hot. Funny how that happens.
















The first area we visited was Pescallo and Oliverio. The areas of the Oliveria and Grena offered stunning views of the Lecco Branch of Lake Como and the olive plantings of Villa Guilia. Next we walked through the hamlets of Regatola and Martino. Then it was on to view the Villa Guilla, built in 1624 for a proto-physicist Eudemio Camozio. By the end of the 18th Century the property was acquired by Count Pietro Venini, a native of Bellagio, and was completely reconstructed in honor of his wife. After viewing the villa we hiked up a narrow cobbled path (the Via Cavada.) Then we headed further up the mountain to a point called Localita Pino in the hamlet of Visgnola.













We wander down cobblestone walkways, make our way through overgrown treking paths on the hillside and cross busy streets - up steep hills and down again to view some of the old peasant homes where the original structures are still intact. We passed through the hamlets of Casate, Suira and Taronico. We visited the Church of San Martino (dating from the 15th Century - well 1510 precisely) and to the Church of San Vito which dates from 1593. As we continue we pass more homes, gardens and beautiful views of Bellagio's promontory.












Our trek took us to places that from outward appearances haven't seen foot traffic for some time. The views were very lovely and enjoyable.

Another significant church was the Church of S. Maria Annunciata in Breno dating to the 16th century.

As we made our way down the mountain we viewed the ancient "wash house" which has recently been restored. This was where local housewives did their washing. The water in the huge stone tubs is the same that flows from the Avelli fountain in the church square (reputed to have powerful healing powers.)













Our next hamlet was Taronico where we passed by the Latteria di Bellagio - the Dairy Shop. The shop was built in 1933 and the produce from here is made from milok supplied from about a dozen farmers from the Larian Triangle. They graze their cows high in the mountains during summertime, guaranteeing top-quality milk.









The final chuch we viewed was the church of San Carlo Borromeo dating from the 17th Century.

In closing we made our way through the final hamlet of Aureggio, down the mountain into the town square of Bellagio.

2009 05 22 Hello Bellagio

Arriva derchi Cinque Terra - Hello Bellagio! This was such an amazing region to visit. Steep narrow mountain roads certainly make traveling by car an adventure. Most locals use the train, the ferry or motorbikes. A few use cars, but parking is a premium. Tiny trucks are used for transporting goods, and it is amazing how they make their way through places we felt were surely walking paths.

After spending 4 days trekking the National Park it was time to say Chow!

We have a 4 hour drive to the Lake Como region to the city of Bellagio. We are really directionally challenged so we are very happy that we invested in a GPS with European Maps (to save our marriage) - and yes! it works..... The Lake Como area is even more cramped and narrow than Cinque Terra. But it is surrounded by mouintains and villages are interdispersed 360 degrees around the lake. We got settled into our room and will start our adventure in Bellagio tomorrow morning - bright and early.

Riomaggiore, Italy - Giro d'Italia

Friday's Yahoo Sports Headline: RIOMAGGIORE, Italy, May 21 (Reuters) - Russia’s Denis Menchov blew away the field in Thursday’s individual time-trial to take the 12th stage of the Giro d’Italia and wrestle the leader’s pink jersey from Italian Danilo Di Luca.

Of course were there to cheer-on seven-times Tour de France winner Lance Armstrong who clocked the 13th fastest time, lifting him from 16th to 12th overall in the competition. This was Lance's first Giro since recovering from a broken collarbone and he is 6 minutes and 34 seconds behind Menchov.

Spanish team Pedro Horrillo Munoz fell down a ravine Saturday and was badly hurt. Menchov stated “The pink jersey is a good prize to dedicate to Horrillo."

Astana’s Levi Leipheimer of the US came in 20 seconds behind Menchov and moved up to third overall.

2009 05 07 & 10 Rome, Italy - Fontana Trevi

This is probably the most photographed spot in the world. People flock to this fantasticly beautiful fountain day and night - crowds are impressive. No matter the time, it can be 3 am flocks of people will be here. We visited late in the evening and during the day, both times there were huge crowds. You can see how difficult it might be to capture a photo with no people in it. Not that you'd want to.

It is said that if you toss a coin into the fountain you will return to Rome..... From all appearances there will be a lot of visitors returning.....

2009 05 08 - Rome, Italy - Day 2

Today we enjoyed another lovely day, clear blue skies… warm weather… cool breezes. We strolled through several districts and made our way into the Ancient City. The ruins are very impressive and it is really incredible that you have so much ancient history at your feet.

Following a leisurely lunch we headed for the Pantheon (which always draws a crowd.) We were forewarned to secure our belongings as pickpockets and thieves frequent the area. We were busy snapping photos and taking in all the artifacts without a care in the world. We’re not in the crowd, just sort of off to ourselves. For whatever reason Joe reaches into his pocket and the look on his face is blank – the panic is immediate – his wallet is gone….. Now mind you we’ve been forewarned about pickpockets. They are real pros here and he’s even worn his pants that have zippered pockets – but the wallet is gone. Damn – these sons of b#/=@!s are good! Now let’s stop and think, when did they hit us?? We’ve avoided the crowd and geeze, we cannot believe we’ve been fleeced. All our money and credit cards are gone. Well, not really – Nancy’s wallet is back at the hotel, but the cards are all to the same accounts, and you know the drill…..they credit card companies will have to send us new ones, blah, blah, blah.

We’re still in panic mode. Nancy decides to approach a well-dressed Italian woman nearby who is talking on a cell phone to ask her to please call the police. Of course she doesn’t speak English and can’t understand a word she’s saying. A few more words, a few gestures, an exchange of gibberish, more hand gestures –now the lady thinks Nancy is asking her for money and shoos her away.

Next, Nancy spots a policeman across the square and approaches him. All the while Joe is telling her “they can’t do anything.” Imagine approaching this guy and try to tell him you’re the victim of a pickpocket. Not that this hasn’t happened before. Again, he speaks no English. Nancy attempts a few words of English/Italian and he uses a few hand gestures that we were sure meant “you’re screwed.”

Yep - we’re screwed. We opt to re-think this situation as we make our way back to the hotel to call the banks and credit card companies. As we retrace the activities of the day and the crowd, we’re thinking about where/how this could have happened. In panic and disbelief we think, we had it at the restaurant for lunch….putting the receipt away……the backpack slipped off the chair…..did the wallet get put on the table???? We flew back to the restaurant and as soon as we popped through the door our waitress is nodding her head “yes, yes, yes” – what a break! The cash and cards were there. The rush from broken to elation is a trip!

After all this excitement we need a little more R&R. We decided to go to a local Irish Pub and listen to an Italian Johnny Cash tribute band “The Folsom Prison Band” attempting to sing Cash in an Italian accent. It was funny and bad all at the same time – but everyone in the bar seemed to enjoy the music – and so did we.

2009 05 08 Rome, Italy - The Vatican

No visit to Rome would be complete without visiting the Vatican. We've been here before and the second time is as amazing as the first. The Basilica, the museum, the Cistine Chapel......wealth, power and spirituality all in one. Our guided tour told us about the Popes of old times - they weren't always such nice guys. More on that later.

2009 05 08 The Italian Johnny Cash Tribute Band!

We've seen it all! While strolling around Rome we spotted this bill touting an Italian Johnny Cash tribute band - performing in an Irish Bar. Let's see, wer're in Rome, Italy......it's an Irish Bar.......An Italian baand singing Johnny Cash???? We just had to go. Here are some pics!

2009 05 07 Rome, Italy

We are so mixed up - were awoke around 2:00 am and clearly it was too early to get up so we forced ourselves to go back to sleep. Still early, some construction noise outside our window would let us sleep no longer - it was time to move.

We enjoyed walking the city. We checked out a local market packed with wine, olive oil, cheese, meats, and gorgeous vegetables and fruits. Flower vendors are everywhere and this city has such colorful baskets hanging from every veranda and balcony.

We snap pictures of monuments and sculptures, too many to count. We manage to step inside a half dozen gorgeous churches that are interdispersed throughout the city. They must number in the thousands.

Most of all we are intrigued by all the history of Rome, how it evolved and grown over the centuries. You can hardly put a shovel in the soil here without unearthing a relic of some sort. When you think about he history of the US - our own history cannot stand up to Italy.

Finally we walked to a Saint Anna restaurant near our hotel and medicated ourselves with fresh fish, lovely pasta and wine to help us lull ourselves to sleep.